Before you begin. This procedure is general reference information, not professional advice. Equipment varies by manufacturer, model, and year. Always follow the documentation supplied with your equipment — where it differs from this page, follow the manufacturer. Verify that you have the tools, the working conditions, and the ability to do this task safely. If anything is unclear, if the equipment is damaged, or if the task exceeds your experience, stop and use a qualified professional. You are responsible for your own safety and for the outcome. This site accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury arising from the use of this information.
Specifications marked unverified could not be traced to a manufacturer source. Do not rely on them — obtain the value from your equipment documentation.
Summary
A clothes dryer that will not start, or that runs but never gets warm, often has a blown thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a one-time safety part: it opens and cuts power once the inside of the dryer gets too hot, and it cannot be reset. This page shows a de-energized continuity test with a multimeter, done with the dryer unplugged, so you can find out whether the fuse is open before you order a replacement part.
This page does not give the exact location of the thermal fuse, its part number, or its rated temperature, because those are different for every model and belong in your dryer's own service documentation. It also does not stop at "replace the fuse." A thermal fuse rarely opens on its own — the common cause is a restricted exhaust duct that traps heat, and putting in a new fuse without clearing that duct can set up the same failure again. If the test below shows an open fuse, this page sends you to clear the exhaust duct first.
Necessary equipment
| Item | Note |
|---|---|
| Digital multimeter | The multimeter must have a continuity or resistance function. |
| Screwdriver | The screwdriver must match the screws on the panel. |
| Flashlight optional | The space behind a panel is often dark. |
| Pen and paper optional | Record the date and the result of the test. |
| Work gloves optional | A metal panel can have a sharp edge. |
Prepare the dryer
Estimated 2 min to 4 min
- Set the dryer to OFF.<1mReport a problem with step 1, Prepare the dryer
DISCONNECT THE DRYER FROM THE ELECTRICAL SUPPLY BEFORE YOU OPEN THE PANEL.
Contact with the electrical supply can give you an electric shock.
- Disconnect the dryer from the electrical supply.<1mReport a problem with step 2, Prepare the dryer
- Remove the plug from the wall outlet.
- The inside of the dryer can still be warm after recent use.
IF THE DRYER USES GAS, DO NOT MOVE THE DRYER FOR THIS TEST.
A damaged gas connection can cause an explosion.
- If you need more room, move the dryer away from the wall.1mReport a problem with step 3, Prepare the dryer
- Move the dryer only as far as you need.
- Do not pull the dryer by the door.
Remove the panel over the thermal fuse
Estimated 3 min to 6 min
- Find the panel that covers the thermal fuse.1mReport a problem with step 1, Remove the panel over the thermal fuse
- The location is different for each model.
- Consult the manufacturer service documentation for your model.
- Remove the screws from the panel.2mReport a problem with step 2, Remove the panel over the thermal fuse
- Put the screws in a safe place.
- Remove the panel from the dryer.<1mReport a problem with step 3, Remove the panel over the thermal fuse
Remove the thermal fuse
Estimated 2 min to 3 min
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
- Find the thermal fuse.1mReport a problem with step 1, Remove the thermal fuse
- Consult the manufacturer service documentation for the exact location on your model.
PULL ON THE CONNECTOR.
DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRE. A pulled wire can separate from the connector.
- Disconnect the two wires from the terminals of the thermal fuse.<1mReport a problem with step 2, Remove the thermal fuse
Do a continuity test on the thermal fuse
Estimated 2 min to 3 min
- Set the multimeter to the continuity function.<1mReport a problem with step 1, Do a continuity test on the thermal fuse
- Many multimeters combine this function with the resistance function.
- Consult the documentation for your own multimeter.
- Touch one probe to one terminal of the thermal fuse.<1mReport a problem with step 2, Do a continuity test on the thermal fuse
- Touch the other probe to the other terminal of the thermal fuse.<1mReport a problem with step 3, Do a continuity test on the thermal fuse
- Listen for a sound from the multimeter.<1mReport a problem with step 4, Do a continuity test on the thermal fuse
- A continuous sound shows a closed circuit.
- No sound shows an open circuit.
- Read the display of the multimeter.<1mReport a problem with step 5, Do a continuity test on the thermal fuse
- A closed circuit gives a reading close to zero ohms.
- The letters OL on the display show an open circuit.
- Remove the probes from the terminals of the thermal fuse.<1mReport a problem with step 6, Do a continuity test on the thermal fuse
Read the result
Estimated 4 min
- If the multimeter shows a closed circuit, install the thermal fuse in its bracket.<1mReport a problem with step 1, Read the result
CONNECT EACH WIRE TO ITS ORIGINAL TERMINAL.
A wrong connection can stop normal operation of the dryer.
- If the multimeter shows a closed circuit, connect the two wires to the terminals of the thermal fuse.<1mReport a problem with step 2, Read the result
- If the multimeter shows a closed circuit, install the panel on the dryer.1mReport a problem with step 3, Read the result
- If the multimeter shows a closed circuit, connect the dryer to the electrical supply.<1mReport a problem with step 4, Read the result
- If the multimeter shows a closed circuit, start the dryer for a short cycle.<1mReport a problem with step 5, Read the result
- If the dryer does not start or heat, the problem is not the thermal fuse.
- If the multimeter shows an open circuit, do not install the thermal fuse in the dryer.<1mReport a problem with step 6, Read the result
CLEAR THE EXHAUST DUCT BEFORE YOU INSTALL A NEW THERMAL FUSE.
A blocked duct traps heat, and a fire can start.
- If the multimeter shows an open circuit, clear the exhaust duct before you install a new thermal fuse.<1mReport a problem with step 7, Read the result
- A blocked exhaust duct is a common cause of a blown thermal fuse.
- Install only the exact thermal fuse specified for your model.
Record the result
Estimated under a minute
- Record the date and the result of the test.<1mReport a problem with step 1, Record the result
Terminology
This page uses one term for each item and holds it throughout, as ASD-STE100 requires. Equipment sellers and other guides use the names below for the same parts.
- thermal fuse
- Also called: thermal cutoff, thermal cut-off, cutoff fuse, safety fuse, dryer fuse, high limit fuse
- continuity test
- Also called: continuity check, beep test, continuity, ohms test
- multimeter
- Also called: voltmeter, volt meter, DMM, tester, digital multimeter, electrical tester
- exhaust duct
- Also called: dryer vent, dryer duct, vent pipe, vent hose, exhaust hose, dryer vent pipe, dryer vent tube
- clothes dryer
- Also called: tumble dryer, dryer machine, drying machine, laundry dryer
- open circuit
- Also called: no continuity, broken circuit, OL reading, blown fuse reading
- closed circuit
- Also called: good continuity, complete circuit
When to use a professional
Stop if the dryer uses gas and you must move it to reach the thermal fuse. A qualified service person must isolate the gas supply and the electrical supply first.
Stop if you find damaged wiring, a burn mark, or a melted part inside the dryer. Speak to a qualified appliance technician.
This page does not cover the replacement of the thermal fuse. You must open the dryer to reach the fuse. Whirlpool recommends a professional for the replacement if you are not comfortable with this work. Replace a blown thermal fuse only with the exact part specified for your model.
Stop if the exhaust duct has damage, a crack, or a blockage you cannot clear. Speak to a qualified appliance technician if you cannot clear the exhaust duct.
If the continuity test shows a closed circuit and the problem continues, stop this procedure. Speak to a qualified appliance technician for more help.
Common questions
My dryer has no power and will not start. Is this the thermal fuse?
It can be. A blown thermal fuse is one common cause of a dryer that will not start or will not heat, along with a tripped circuit breaker, a loose plug, and a door switch that is not fully closed. The continuity test on this page tells you whether the fuse itself is open. If the fuse tests good, the problem is somewhere else, and a qualified appliance technician can help you find it.
Can I just reset the thermal fuse instead of replacing it?
No. A thermal fuse is a one-time device: once it opens because the dryer got too hot, it does not reset itself and there is no reset button. Whirlpool's own guidance is direct about this — a blown thermal fuse must be replaced before the dryer is used again. Because reaching the fuse means opening the dryer, Whirlpool recommends a professional for the replacement itself if you are not comfortable disassembling the machine.
Why does this page send me to clear the dryer vent before I replace the fuse?
Because a thermal fuse rarely fails by itself. The most common reason it opens is restricted airflow in the exhaust duct, which traps heat inside the dryer until the fuse trips to stop a fire. The CPSC is explicit that blocked airflow from lint causes exactly this kind of heat build-up in a dryer. If you install a new fuse without clearing the duct, the same heat build-up can open the new fuse too, so the vent gets checked first.
What should a good reading look like on the multimeter?
In continuity mode, a good fuse gives a steady sound from the multimeter. In resistance mode, a good fuse gives a reading at or near zero ohms. A blown fuse gives no sound in continuity mode, or a reading of OL, which means an open circuit, in resistance mode.
Is it safe to test a dryer thermal fuse myself?
The test on this page is done with the dryer unplugged and the fuse disconnected from its wires, so no part of the test involves an energized circuit. The main risk in this job is forgetting to disconnect the dryer before you open the panel, which this page's hazard notice covers. If you find damaged wiring, a burn mark, or a strong smell of melted plastic, stop and speak to a qualified appliance technician instead of continuing.
The fuse tested fine, but the dryer still will not heat. What now?
A good reading on the thermal fuse only rules out that one part. A dryer that still will not heat can have a failed heating element, a failed high-limit thermostat, a wiring problem, or a control board fault, and finding which one needs more testing than this page covers. Speak to a qualified appliance technician for the next step.
Related procedures
- How do I test a fuse or check if a wire is broken with a multimeter
- How to clean a clogged dryer vent and lint duct
- What dryer vent hose is safe, and how long can it be?
- How do I replace the fuse in my multimeter, and how do I know my test leads are still safe to use
- How to test a car battery with a multimeter
- How to clean the lint filter in a tumble dryer
- Work out why a battery is flat every morning when the battery itself tests good
- How to find and replace a blown fuse in your car
Sources
Every specification on this page is traced to one of these sources. Tier 1 is a manufacturer document, a published standard, or a government safety authority. See Standards for the full tiering rule.
- Tier 1Overheated Clothes Dryers Can Cause Fires (CPSC Publication 5022)
- Tier 1Dryer Not Heating: Troubleshooting Guide
- Tier 1How to Check a Fuse with a Multimeter
Revision history
Current version 1 · updated 2026-08-03 · next review due 2027-08-03
- v1 · 2026-08-03First draft. Continuity-test method and result interpretation sourced from Fluke (manufacturer of the test instrument); thermal fuse behaviour (one-time device, must be replaced, professional recommended for the replacement step) sourced from Whirlpool. The blocked-duct/heat-buildup mechanism is sourced from CPSC Publication 5022, already registered for clear-dryer-vent. Per the backlog note, the record does not end at 'replace the fuse': an open reading routes the reader to clear the exhaust duct before a new fuse goes in. The fuse's location, part number and rated open temperature are per-model and are not asserted; the temperature is published as a safety-critical specification with an unverified, consult-the-manufacturer value. whirlpool-dryer-not-heating and fluke-how-to-check-fuse-with-multimeter are new sources staged in data/sources-additions-test-a-dryer-thermal-fuse-for-continuity.json and are not yet admitted to data/sources.json; check 3 will hold this record until scripts/sources_admit.py runs.
Corrections to this page are listed in the public corrections log. Reports that are credible and not yet verified are listed in the public errata register, and an open one renders above the step it concerns.
Comments and corrections
Found an error? A correction with a manufacturer source is applied and logged publicly. You can also write to corrections@fixchecklist.com.
Every step above carries its own report control, which tags the report with that step so a correction reaches the right place. For anything about the procedure as a whole — the order of the sections, a step that is missing, something that did not match your equipment — use this: report something about this whole procedure.