Maintenance procedure · Written to ASD-STE100 Issue 9 · Formatted to ANSI Z535

Replace a Multimeter's Fuse and Check Its Test Leads

Swapping the internal fuse and confirming the leads are still safe to use, on a handheld digital multimeter
ApplicabilityHandheld digital multimeters with a screw-fastened case and a fuse you can reach, typically behind a battery cover or a removable back panel. Not for a clamp meter with no fuse you can reach, or a meter with a sealed or glued case.
Task time16 min to 24 min editorial estimate, not a measurement
PersonnelOne
Revisionv1 · 2026-08-04
BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Before you begin. This procedure is general reference information, not professional advice. Equipment varies by manufacturer, model, and year. Always follow the documentation supplied with your equipment — where it differs from this page, follow the manufacturer. Verify that you have the tools, the working conditions, and the ability to do this task safely. If anything is unclear, if the equipment is damaged, or if the task exceeds your experience, stop and use a qualified professional. You are responsible for your own safety and for the outcome. This site accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury arising from the use of this information.

Specifications marked unverified could not be traced to a manufacturer source. Do not rely on them — obtain the value from your equipment documentation.

Summary

A multimeter that still reads voltage and resistance correctly but goes dead only on a current range usually has a blown internal fuse — the small cartridge fuse that protects the meter, and you, if something goes wrong while the meter is measuring current. This is the same problem people describe as a "multimeter fuse blown", a meter that "won't read amps", or one that is "dead on one range", and it is a straightforward fix once you have the exact replacement fuse your own meter calls for. This page covers finding and swapping that fuse, plus a quick check of the test leads themselves, since a cracked or broken lead can produce the same kind of bad reading as a blown fuse.

This page gives you the general sequence — confirm the symptom, open the case, swap the fuse, check the leads — the same sequence on almost any handheld digital multimeter with a screw-fastened case. It does not give you a fuse rating: the correct type, voltage rating, and current rating are printed inside your own meter and stated in its manual, and they are different for each model. Fitting a fuse of the wrong rating, or a wire in place of a fuse, defeats the protection the fuse is there to provide. If your meter still won't read current after a correctly rated new fuse, or its case is sealed rather than screwed, this page tells you where to stop and who to contact instead.

Safety

WARNING

DISCONNECT THE TEST LEADS FROM ANY CIRCUIT BEFORE YOU START THIS PROCEDURE.
Contact with a live circuit through an open meter can give you an electric shock.

Necessary equipment

ItemNote
Digital multimeterThe meter must have a case you can open with a screwdriver.
Small screwdriverMost meters use a small cross-head or flat screwdriver for the case screws.
Flashlight optionalThe fuse rating printed inside the meter can be small and hard to read.
Pen and paper optionalRecord the fuse rating and the date you replaced it.
Replacement fuse materialMatch the exact type, the voltage rating, and the current rating of the old fuse.
Replacement test lead set materialBuy a new set if a lead fails the damage check or the continuity check.

Start

Estimated 7 min to 13 min

NOTEThe fuse location and the case screws are different for each model.
  1. Read the manual for your own multimeter.
    • The fuse position, the screw count, and the fuse rating are different for each model.
    3m
  2. Make sure the meter reads voltage and resistance but not current.
    • This pattern points to a blown fuse in the current input.
    • A meter dead on every function points to a different fault.
    1m
  3. Note the fuse type, the voltage rating, and the current rating printed inside the meter.
    • Your meter's own manual gives the same rating if you cannot read the print.
    <1m
  4. Buy a replacement fuse with the identical type, the voltage rating, and the current rating.
    • A general-purpose fuse of the same physical size is not a safe substitute.
    • A part ordered online can take extra days to arrive.
    2m

Examine the test leads

Estimated 2 min to 3 min

NOTEExamine the leads before you use the meter for any other task.
Condition required of test leads, probes, and meter accessories before use
Manufacturer or standard verified
VISUALLY INSPECTED FOR EXTERNAL DEFECTS AND DAMAGE; REMOVED FROM SERVICE IF DAMAGED

Source: 1910.334 - Use of equipment (c) Test instruments and equipment · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04

Rating requirement for test instruments and their accessories
Manufacturer or standard verified
RATED FOR THE CIRCUITS AND EQUIPMENT THEY WILL BE CONNECTED TO

Source: 1910.334 - Use of equipment (c) Test instruments and equipment · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04

WARNING

DO NOT USE A DAMAGED TEST LEAD.
A crack, a cut, or exposed wire on a lead can give you an electric shock.

  1. Examine each test lead along its full length for a cut or exposed wire.
    • Flex the insulation gently and look for a crack.
    <1m
  2. Examine the probe tip and the plug on each test lead.
    • Look for a bent probe tip.
    • Look for a loose or a damaged plug.
    <1m
  3. Make sure each plug fits securely in the meter's input terminal.
    <1m
  4. Insert the leads into the meter and set the dial to continuity.
    <1m
  5. Touch the two probe tips together and read the display.
    • A beep and a low reading mean the lead set is intact.
    • No beep means the lead set has a break.
    • A display reading of OL means the same fault.
    <1m
  6. Replace the test lead set if it fails this check.
    • Match the replacement set's rating to your meter's own rating.
    <1m

Disconnect the meter

Estimated under a minute to 1 min

  1. Remove the test leads from the meter.
    <1m
  2. Turn the meter dial to the off position.
    <1m
  3. Remove the battery from the meter.
    • Some meters keep the fuse under the same cover as the battery.
    • Other meters keep the fuse under a separate cover.
    <1m

Open the case

Estimated 1 min to 2 min

  1. Remove the screws that hold the case together.
    • The screw count and the screw locations are different for each model.
    • Keep the screws together so you do not lose one.
    1m
NOTICE

DO NOT FORCE THE CASE HALVES APART.
A cracked case tab can weaken the case and let in dust.

  1. Separate the two halves of the case.
    • Use light force to avoid a cracked tab.
    <1m

Replace the fuse

Estimated 1 min

NOTESome meters use two separate fuses, one for each current range.
Type, voltage rating, and current rating for a replacement multimeter fuse
Unverified — do not rely on this value
CONSULT THE RATING PRINTED INSIDE YOUR OWN METER OR STATED IN ITS OWN MANUAL. FIT ONLY THE EXACT TYPE, VOLTAGE RATING, AND CURRENT RATING NAMED THERE.

No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.

Minimum interrupt (breaking) rating for a replacement multimeter fuse
Unverified — do not rely on this value
CONSULT YOUR METER'S OWN MANUAL. DO NOT FIT A FUSE WITH A LOWER INTERRUPT RATING THAN THE ORIGINAL FUSE.

No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.

  1. Find the fuse or fuses inside the meter.
    • A fuse that has blown often shows a broken wire or a dark mark inside the glass.
    <1m
  2. Remove the old fuse from its holder.
    • Note the exact type printed on the old fuse before you discard it.
    <1m
WARNING

FIT ONLY THE EXACT REPLACEMENT FUSE FOR YOUR METER.
A wrong fuse, or a wire in place of a fuse, cannot protect you from a fault.

  1. Fit the new fuse into the holder.
    • Never put a wire or a piece of foil in the fuse holder.
    <1m

Close the case

Estimated 2 min

  1. Align the two halves of the case.
    <1m
  2. Insert the case screws.
    <1m
  3. Tighten the case screws.
    • Do not overtighten a small case screw.
    <1m
  4. Put the battery back into the meter.
    <1m
  5. Insert the test leads into the meter.
    <1m
  6. Set the dial to the continuity function.
    <1m
  7. Touch the two probe tips together and read the display.
    • A beep shows the meter powers on and reads correctly.
    • No beep points to a fault beyond the fuse.
    • Stop the procedure and speak to a technician.
    <1m

Finish

Estimated 1 min

Order to remove the test leads from the multimeter after a check
Manufacturer or standard verified
RED LEAD FIRST, THEN THE BLACK LEAD

Source: A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04

  1. Remove the red test lead from the meter first.
    <1m
  2. Remove the black test lead from the meter second.
    <1m
  3. Turn the meter off.
    <1m
  4. Record the date and the fuse rating you fitted.
    • A record helps you buy the correct fuse the next time.
    <1m

Terminology

This page uses one term for each item and holds it throughout, as ASD-STE100 requires. Equipment sellers and other guides use the names below for the same parts.

fuse
Also called: blown fuse, meter fuse, internal fuse, cartridge fuse, glass fuse
test lead
Also called: probe, meter lead, multimeter wire, meter probe, test probe
multimeter
Also called: voltmeter, volt meter, DMM, tester, digital multimeter, electrical tester
continuity
Also called: continuity test, continuity check, beep test, continuity setting, continuity mode
current
Also called: amps, amperage, amp reading, current reading, won't read amps
input terminal
Also called: meter socket, input socket, meter terminal, probe socket
interrupt rating
Also called: breaking capacity, AIC rating, fuse breaking rating, rupture rating

When to use a professional

This procedure is for a meter with screws in its case and a fuse you can reach. It does not cover a meter with a sealed case or a glued case. It does not cover a clamp meter with no fuse you can reach.

Stop if you cannot find the fuse rating on the meter or in its manual. Contact the meter's manufacturer. Do not guess at a rating.

Stop if the meter still fails on current after a correctly rated new fuse. Speak to a qualified repair technician about the meter.

Replace a test lead set that fails the damage check or the continuity check. Do not use a failed lead set on any circuit.

Common questions

My multimeter won't read amps. Is the fuse blown?

A meter that still reads voltage and resistance correctly, but shows nothing or shows OL on a current range, very often has a blown fuse in the current input. It is not the only possible cause, so confirm the pattern before you open the case: a meter that is dead on every range and every function points to a different fault, not a fuse. You can also remove the fuse and test it directly for continuity — see our guide to checking continuity with a multimeter for that method.

How do I replace the fuse in my multimeter?

Remove the test leads and the battery, take off the case screws, and open the case to reach the fuse. Note the exact type, voltage rating, and current rating printed on the old fuse or in your meter's manual, buy an identical replacement, and fit it the same way the old one came out. The exact screw count and fuse location are different for every meter, so keep the manual open while you work.

Can I use a regular fuse instead of the exact multimeter fuse?

No. Fluke's own guidance on selecting a tester fuse is direct about this: a fuse designed for a test instrument has a high interrupt rating, built to contain the energy of an electrical fault and protect you from it, and a fuse without that rating — or a wire in place of a fuse — does not do that job. Buy only the type, voltage rating, and current rating your own meter's manual specifies.

How do I know if my test leads are still safe to use?

Look first: run your fingers and your eyes along the full length of each lead for a cut, a crack, or exposed wire, and check the probe tips and the plugs for damage. Then plug the leads into the meter, set the dial to continuity, and touch the two probe tips together — a beep and a low reading mean the lead set is intact, and no beep, or a display reading OL, means a lead is broken. Replace the whole set rather than one lead.

What does the fuse in a multimeter actually protect?

It protects the current-measuring circuit inside the meter, and it protects you. If the meter is connected to a current path carrying more than it can safely handle, the fuse is designed to open before that energy has anywhere else to go. A fuse with the wrong rating, or no fuse at all, removes that protection even though the meter may still appear to work normally on other ranges.

I fitted a new fuse and the meter still won't read current. What now?

Stop swapping parts. A fuse that blows again quickly, or a meter that still will not read current with a correctly rated new fuse in place, usually points to a fault elsewhere in the meter rather than a second bad fuse. Speak to a qualified repair technician, or contact the meter's manufacturer, rather than keep guessing.

Sources

Every specification on this page is traced to one of these sources. Tier 1 is a manufacturer document, a published standard, or a government safety authority. See Standards for the full tiering rule.

  1. Tier 1Guide to Digital Multimeter SafetyFluke Corporation · accessed 2026-08-04 · re-verification due 2027-01-31
  2. Tier 1A Guide to Continuity Testing with a MultimeterFluke Corporation · accessed 2026-08-04 · re-verification due 2027-01-31
  3. Tier 1How to Choose the Correct Fuse for Your TesterFluke Corporation · accessed 2026-08-04 · re-verification due 2027-01-31
  4. Tier 1Fluke Multimeter Fuse ReplacementsFluke Corporation · accessed 2026-08-04 · re-verification due 2027-01-31
  5. Tier 1Digital Multimeter Fuse ReplacementKlein Tools, Inc. · accessed 2026-08-04 · re-verification due 2027-01-31
  6. Tier 11910.334 - Use of equipment (c) Test instruments and equipmentOccupational Safety and Health Administration (U.S. Department of Labor) · accessed 2026-08-04 · re-verification due 2027-01-31

Revision history

Current version 1 · updated 2026-08-04 · next review due 2027-08-04

  1. v1 · 2026-08-04First draft. No fuse rating is published anywhere on this page: the type, voltage rating, current rating, and interrupt rating for a replacement multimeter fuse are all safety-critical under rule 1, vary by model, and publish as an instruction to consult the reader's own meter and manual (specifications 'Type, voltage rating, and current rating for a replacement multimeter fuse' and 'Minimum interrupt (breaking) rating for a replacement multimeter fuse'), with no digit in either value. The physical opening sequence (leads out, meter off, battery out, case screws, separate the halves, locate and replace the fuse, reassemble) is written generically from the reader's own meter and manual rather than naming any one model's screw count or fuse position; it is structurally informed by Klein Tools' own 'Digital Multimeter Fuse Replacement' instruction sheet (manufacturer documentation, read directly at the first-party asset URL on 2026-08-04, HTTP 200), which documents that sequence for several of its own meter families, without copying its wording. The prohibition on a general-purpose substitute fuse or a bridging wire rests on Fluke's 'How to Choose the Correct Fuse for Your Tester', read at the first-party URL on 2026-08-04: a test-tool fuse is built with a high minimum interrupt rating to contain fault energy and protect the user, and the guide states plainly that a fuse without the right ratings does not do that job. Fluke's fuse accessories page ('Fluke Multimeter Fuse Replacements') is cited for the parallel statement that a current-measuring test tool must be fused to protect the user as well as the tool itself. The test-lead damage check reuses the existing tier-1 source fluke-multimeter-safety-guide ('check the meter, test probes and accessories over for signs of physical damage'; 'never use a damaged meter or damaged test probes'), already registered in data/sources.json, rather than re-staging it. The lead continuity self-check and the red-lead-first/black-lead-second removal order reuse the existing tier-1 source fluke-how-to-test-for-continuity, already registered for check-continuity-with-a-multimeter, and are deliberately brief here rather than restated in full, to avoid substantially duplicating that published page (rule 7); the FAQ points there for the complete generic method. The two verified, non-numeric specifications on required test-lead condition and on accessories being rated for the circuit and equipment they connect to rest on 29 CFR 1910.334(c)(2)-(3), OSHA's own regulation text for qualified persons using test instruments, read directly at osha.gov on 2026-08-04 (HTTP 200); the staged source's notes record that this subsection applies formally to a qualified person testing electric circuits at work, and the two specifications are cited on this page as the same sound practice, not as a claim that the regulation itself governs a homeowner. This record depends on the not-yet-published backlog topic 'read-the-safety-category-marking-on-a-multimeter' for CAT-rating interpretation and deliberately does not restate or explain the category system (rule 7); it is not listed in 'related' because that page is unpublished, and this page's own mention of lead-to-meter rating is limited to the single OSHA-sourced sentence about accessories being rated for what they connect to. Sources are staged in data/sources-additions-replace-a-multimeter-fuse-and-check-its-test-leads.json and are not yet admitted to data/sources.json; check 3 will hold this record until scripts/sources_admit.py runs.

Corrections to this page are listed in the public corrections log. Reports that are credible and not yet verified are listed in the public errata register, and an open one renders above the step it concerns.

Comments and corrections

Found an error? A correction with a manufacturer source is applied and logged publicly. You can also write to corrections@fixchecklist.com.

Every step above carries its own report control, which tags the report with that step so a correction reaches the right place. For anything about the procedure as a whole — the order of the sections, a step that is missing, something that did not match your equipment — use this: report something about this whole procedure.

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