Before you begin. This procedure is general reference information, not professional advice. Equipment varies by manufacturer, model, and year. Always follow the documentation supplied with your equipment — where it differs from this page, follow the manufacturer. Verify that you have the tools, the working conditions, and the ability to do this task safely. If anything is unclear, if the equipment is damaged, or if the task exceeds your experience, stop and use a qualified professional. You are responsible for your own safety and for the outcome. This site accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury arising from the use of this information.
Specifications marked unverified could not be traced to a manufacturer source. Do not rely on them — obtain the value from your equipment documentation.
Summary
Continuity is the one multimeter test almost every household job needs, because it answers a single question: does electricity have an unbroken path from one end of this part to the other? A blown fuse, a cut cord, a failed switch and a dead bulb filament all show the same result on the meter — no continuity — and the same beep tells you a fuse, a switch, a cord or a bulb is still good. This page covers the one setup and the one test, done the same way on any of those four items.
Everything here is done with the item unplugged and the part removed or isolated from the rest of its circuit. That is not a suggestion. Fluke, the maker of the test instrument this page is written around, says plainly to turn off circuit power before testing resistance or continuity, and a continuity or resistance test run on a circuit that still has power can damage the meter and shock you. This page does not cover a wall switch, a wall receptacle, or any wiring inside a building's electrical system — that work needs a qualified electrician and a different set of tools.
Safety
DISCONNECT THE ITEM FROM ITS ELECTRICAL SUPPLY BEFORE A CONTINUITY TEST.
A continuity test on a circuit that still has power can damage the meter. It can also give you an electric shock.
Necessary equipment
| Item | Note |
|---|---|
| Digital multimeter | The multimeter must have a continuity function or a resistance function. |
| Small screwdriver optional | Some fuse holders and switch housings need a screwdriver to open. |
| Flashlight optional | The space around the item is often dark. |
| Pen and paper optional | Record the date and the result of the test. |
| Replacement fuse, switch, cord or bulb material | Get the correct replacement part before you start. A failed part needs replacement, not repair. |
Start
Estimated 4 min to 6 min
- Read the manual for your own multimeter.3mReport a problem with step 1, Start
- The continuity function is different for each model.
- Some multimeters need a button press to turn on the continuity function.
DO NOT USE A DAMAGED METER OR DAMAGED TEST LEADS.
Exposed metal on a lead or a crack in the meter case can give you an electric shock.
- Examine the multimeter and the test leads for damage.<1mReport a problem with step 2, Start
- Look for a crack in the case.
- Look for exposed metal on a lead.
- Gather the item for the test.<1mReport a problem with step 3, Start
- This procedure covers a power cord, a switch, a fuse, and a light bulb.
- This procedure does not cover a wall switch or the wiring in a building.
Disconnect the item
Estimated 3 min to 8 min
Source: How to Use a Multimeter: A Comprehensive Guide · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04
- Disconnect the item from its electrical supply.<1mReport a problem with step 1, Disconnect the item
- Remove the plug from the wall outlet.
- Remove the batteries from a battery-powered item.
LET A RECENTLY USED BULB COOL BEFORE YOU TOUCH IT.
A hot bulb can burn your skin.
- Let a recently used light bulb cool before you touch it.1mReport a problem with step 2, Disconnect the item
ISOLATE THE COMPONENT FROM THE REST OF THE CIRCUIT BEFORE THE TEST.
A component still connected to other parts can give you a false reading.
- Remove the component from its holder or from its circuit.1mReport a problem with step 3, Disconnect the item
- Remove a fuse from its holder.
- Disconnect a switch from its wires, or remove it from its housing.
- Disconnect both ends of a cord from other equipment.
- Remove a bulb from its socket.
- Examine the item for melted plastic, a scorched mark, or a broken part.<1mReport a problem with step 4, Disconnect the item
- If you find damage, stop this procedure.<1mReport a problem with step 5, Disconnect the item
- Speak to a qualified technician about a damaged item.
Set the continuity function
Estimated 2 min to 2 min
Source: A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04
Source: A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04
Source: A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
- Turn the dial to the continuity function.<1mReport a problem with step 1, Set the continuity function
- Many multimeters combine this function with the resistance function.
- Press the continuity button if your multimeter needs one.
- Insert the black test lead into the COM terminal.<1mReport a problem with step 2, Set the continuity function
- Insert the red test lead into the VΩ terminal.<1mReport a problem with step 3, Set the continuity function
- Separate the two probes and read the display.<1mReport a problem with step 4, Set the continuity function
- The display can show OL with the probes apart.
- This reading shows the meter is ready for the test.
Run the test
Estimated 2 min to 2 min
- Touch one probe to one end of the component.<1mReport a problem with step 1, Run the test
- Touch the other probe to the other end of the component.<1mReport a problem with step 2, Run the test
- The order of the two probes does not matter for this test.
- Press each probe against a metal part.
- Do not press a probe against insulation.
- Listen for a sound from the multimeter.<1mReport a problem with step 3, Run the test
- Read the display of the multimeter.<1mReport a problem with step 4, Run the test
- Repeat the test once more.<1mReport a problem with step 5, Run the test
- The two results must be the same.
- Remove the probes from the component.<1mReport a problem with step 6, Run the test
Read the result
Estimated under a minute
Source: A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04
Source: A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04
- If the multimeter beeps, the component has continuity.<1mReport a problem with step 1, Read the result
- A fuse with continuity is a good fuse.
- A closed switch has continuity.
- A cord or a bulb with continuity has no break.
- If the multimeter does not beep, the component has no continuity.<1mReport a problem with step 2, Read the result
- A fuse with no continuity is a blown fuse.
- An open switch, or a faulty switch, has no continuity.
- A cord or a bulb with no continuity has a break.
Finish the test
Estimated 2 min to 4 min
Source: A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter · tier 1 · accessed 2026-08-04
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
- Remove the red test lead from the multimeter first.<1mReport a problem with step 1, Finish the test
- Remove the black test lead from the multimeter second.<1mReport a problem with step 2, Finish the test
- Turn the multimeter off.<1mReport a problem with step 3, Finish the test
- Fluke tells you to turn the meter off to save the battery.
- Do not use a component with no continuity.<1mReport a problem with step 4, Finish the test
- Replace a blown fuse with the exact type and rating for your item.
- Replace a broken switch, cord, or bulb before you use the item again.
- Reassemble the item.1mReport a problem with step 5, Finish the test
- Put a good fuse back in its holder.
- Reconnect a switch to its wires, or put it back in its housing.
- Screw a good bulb back into its socket.
- Record the date and the result of the test.<1mReport a problem with step 6, Finish the test
- A record helps you track a part that fails again.
Terminology
This page uses one term for each item and holds it throughout, as ASD-STE100 requires. Equipment sellers and other guides use the names below for the same parts.
- continuity
- Also called: continuity test, continuity check, beep test, continuity setting, continuity mode, multimeter beep test
- multimeter
- Also called: voltmeter, volt meter, DMM, tester, digital multimeter, electrical tester
- open circuit
- Also called: no continuity, broken circuit, OL reading, broken wire, blown fuse reading
- closed circuit
- Also called: good continuity, complete circuit, unbroken wire
- test lead
- Also called: probe, meter lead, multimeter wire, meter probe
- fuse
- Also called: blown fuse, cartridge fuse, blade fuse, glass fuse
- meter terminal
- Also called: COM jack, VΩ jack, common jack, ground jack, black probe jack, negative jack, input jack
When to use a professional
This procedure is for small unplugged items only. It does not cover a wall switch, a wall receptacle, or wiring inside a building's electrical system. Speak to a qualified electrician for that work.
Stop if the item shows melted plastic, a scorched mark, or a broken part. Speak to a qualified technician about a damaged item.
This procedure checks one component for continuity. It does not find why a fuse or a switch failed. A new fuse can fail again soon after you fit it. If this happens, speak to a qualified technician.
This procedure does not cover a multimeter measurement on a circuit that still has power. Consult the documentation for your own multimeter, or speak to a qualified electrician, for a measurement on a live circuit.
Common questions
How do I test a fuse with a multimeter?
Remove the fuse from its holder so it is fully isolated, set the multimeter to the continuity function, and touch one probe to each end of the fuse. Fluke's own guidance is direct: a good fuse should show continuity, meaning the meter beeps and shows a low reading. No beep, or a display reading OL, means the fuse is blown. Never test a fuse while it is still in a live circuit.
What is the multimeter continuity setting, and how do I turn it on?
It is a dial position, usually shown by a sound-wave or diode-like symbol, often sharing a spot on the dial with the resistance (Ω) function. Fluke's guide notes that some models need you to press a separate continuity button to activate it once the dial is in position. Check your own multimeter's manual, since the exact symbol and any button vary by model.
How do I check if a wire is broken?
Disconnect both ends of the cord or wire from anything else, then run the same continuity test across its full length: one probe at each end. A beep and a low reading mean the conductor inside is unbroken end to end. No beep, or an OL reading, means there is a break somewhere along the wire, even if the outer insulation looks fine.
What does the multimeter beep actually mean?
It means the meter found a complete, low-resistance path between its two probes. Fluke's continuity guide puts it plainly: the meter emits a beep if a complete path is detected, and it does not beep if the circuit is open. The beep lets you keep your eyes on the probes and the component instead of watching a numeric display.
What does OL mean on my multimeter?
OL stands for overload, and in continuity or resistance mode it means the meter is reading a resistance too high to measure — in practice, an open circuit. You will see it on a healthy meter with the probes held apart, and you will see it again on a component with no continuity, such as a blown fuse or a broken wire.
Can I test continuity on something that is still plugged in?
No. Fluke's own safety guidance is unambiguous: turn off circuit power before testing resistance or continuity, and prioritize safety to avoid electric shock or damage to your equipment. A continuity test relies on the meter's own small internal battery, and outside power on the same terminals can damage the meter and shock you. Unplug the item, and remove batteries from a battery-powered item, before you connect a single probe.
The fuse tests good but the item still does not work. What now?
A continuity test only tells you whether that one part is intact — it does not diagnose the rest of the item. A cord, a switch, or an internal connection could still be at fault, and if a new fuse blows again shortly after replacement, that usually points to a fault elsewhere in the circuit rather than a second bad fuse. Speak to a qualified technician rather than keep replacing parts.
Related procedures
- How do I replace the fuse in my multimeter, and how do I know my test leads are still safe to use
- How to test a dryer thermal fuse with a multimeter
- How to test a car battery with a multimeter
- Work out why a battery is flat every morning when the battery itself tests good
- How to find and replace a blown fuse in your car
- How do I set a click type torque wrench and what setting do I leave it on when I put it away
- How to clean and store hand tools so they don't go rusty
Sources
Every specification on this page is traced to one of these sources. Tier 1 is a manufacturer document, a published standard, or a government safety authority. See Standards for the full tiering rule.
- Tier 1A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter
- Tier 1How to Use a Multimeter: A Comprehensive Guide
- Tier 1Guide to Digital Multimeter Safety
- Tier 1How to Check a Fuse with a Multimeter
Revision history
Current version 1 · updated 2026-08-04 · next review due 2027-08-04
- v1 · 2026-08-04First draft. Method, probe-jack assignment, mode selection, beep/no-beep interpretation, the OL display, and the lead-removal order are sourced from Fluke Corporation's own 'A Guide to Continuity Testing with a Multimeter', read at the first-party URL via a direct HTTP GET and via WebFetch on 2026-08-04 (both HTTP 200, contents agree). The requirement to disconnect the item from its electrical supply before any continuity or resistance test rests on Fluke's 'How to Use a Multimeter: A Comprehensive Guide' safety tips ('Always turn off circuit power and discharge all high-voltage capacitors before testing resistance, continuity, diodes, or capacitance.'), and renders as the page-level hazard, above every step, per rule 4. The instruction never to use a damaged meter or damaged test leads rests on Fluke's 'Guide to Digital Multimeter Safety'. The existing tier-1 source fluke-how-to-check-fuse-with-multimeter, already registered in data/sources.json for test-a-dryer-thermal-fuse-for-continuity, is reused rather than re-staged. Scope is deliberately narrow: a power cord, an in-line or appliance switch, a fuse removed from its holder, and a light bulb, all fully disconnected and isolated before any probe touches them. The page explicitly excludes a wall switch, a wall receptacle, and any building wiring, and routes that work to a qualified electrician in the professional boundary, keeping the record inside Phase 1 (no mains voltage, line voltage, breaker panel, or live-circuit work). No safety-critical numeric value is published: the resistance threshold at which a given meter beeps and the current rating for a replacement fuse both vary by model or by item and publish as an instruction to consult the manufacturer, with no digit in either value. Sources are staged in data/sources-additions-check-continuity-with-a-multimeter.json and are not yet admitted to data/sources.json; check 3 will hold this record until scripts/sources_admit.py runs.
Corrections to this page are listed in the public corrections log. Reports that are credible and not yet verified are listed in the public errata register, and an open one renders above the step it concerns.
Comments and corrections
Found an error? A correction with a manufacturer source is applied and logged publicly. You can also write to corrections@fixchecklist.com.
Every step above carries its own report control, which tags the report with that step so a correction reaches the right place. For anything about the procedure as a whole — the order of the sections, a step that is missing, something that did not match your equipment — use this: report something about this whole procedure.