Before you begin. This procedure is general reference information, not professional advice. Equipment varies by manufacturer, model, and year. Always follow the documentation supplied with your equipment — where it differs from this page, follow the manufacturer. Verify that you have the tools, the working conditions, and the ability to do this task safely. If anything is unclear, if the equipment is damaged, or if the task exceeds your experience, stop and use a qualified professional. You are responsible for your own safety and for the outcome. This site accepts no liability for any loss, damage, or injury arising from the use of this information.
Specifications marked unverified could not be traced to a manufacturer source. Do not rely on them — obtain the value from your equipment documentation.
Summary
A dull chainsaw chain makes the saw work harder, produces fine dust instead of chips, and increases the risk of kickback. Sharpen the cutters and adjust the depth gauges (rakers) yourself using the correct round file and a depth gauge tool. Stop filing when the chain reaches its wear markers.
Necessary equipment
| Item | Note |
|---|---|
| Round file (chainsaw sharpening) | Match the file diameter to your chain pitch. Consult your chain documentation or manual. |
| Flat file | For adjustment of depth gauges and rakers after cutter work. |
| Depth gauge tool | Measures the depth gauge height and marks the correct limit. |
| File handle | Holds the round file safely. Permits secure grip during the work. |
| Filing guide or file holder | Maintains correct angle and file protrusion. Optional but recommended. |
| Bench vise or filing vice | Secures the chain so it does not move during the work. |
| Caliper or ruler | Checks cutter height and compares depth gauge position. |
| Marking pen | Optional. Marks the starting point and tracks progress around the chain. |
Specifications
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
No tier-1 source was found for this value. Take it from the documentation supplied with your equipment.
Prepare the chain and workspace
Estimated 4 min to 7 min
DISCONNECT THE SPARK PLUG LEAD.
Do not start the engine. A running engine or unexpected starting can injure your hands and face.
- Position the chainsaw so the chain points toward you.1mReport a problem with step 1, Prepare the chain and workspace
- You can place the saw on a flat workbench.
- Alternatively, clamp the saw in a bench vise.
- Inspect the chain for damage: cracks, broken teeth, or bent drive links. Do not file a damaged chain.1mReport a problem with step 2, Prepare the chain and workspace
- Pull the chain upward at the midpoint of the bar.2mReport a problem with step 3, Prepare the chain and workspace
- The chain must pull free of the bar but not lift more than one-quarter inch.
- If the chain tension is incorrect, adjust it before you file the cutters.
Select the correct file size
Estimated 3 min
- Identify your chain pitch and gauge from the chain or manual. Common pitches are one-quarter inch, point-three-two-five inch, three-eighths inch, and point-four-zero-four inch.1mReport a problem with step 1, Select the correct file size
- Match your file diameter to the chain pitch. Consult your chainsaw manual or the chain manufacturer documentation for the correct file size.2mReport a problem with step 2, Select the correct file size
File the cutter teeth
Estimated 22 min to 43 min
A ROUND FILE IS SHARP AND CAN CUT YOUR FINGERS.
Wear cut-resistant gloves and hold the file firmly in the handle. Keep your other hand clear of the file.
Uneven cutter heights cause the chain to pull to one side and cut a curved kerf.
This increases the risk of kickback and loss of control.
- Insert the round file into the file handle and position it at the correct angle inside the first cutter tooth.2mReport a problem with step 1, File the cutter teeth
- Push the file forward across the cutter tooth with firm, even strokes. Lift the file off on the backstroke. Make the same number of strokes on each cutter tooth around the chain.10mReport a problem with step 2, File the cutter teeth
- Measure the file protrusion above the cutter tooth top.5mReport a problem with step 3, File the cutter teeth
- The file must protrude about one-fifth of its diameter above the tooth (usually about one-quarter inch).
- If the protrusion changes as you file, adjust the file handle height.
- Measure each cutter height with the caliper.5mReport a problem with step 4, File the cutter teeth
- All cutters on the right side of the chain must be the same height.
- All cutters on the left side of the chain must be the same height.
- If one cutter is shorter than the others on the same side, file the longer cutters to match it.
Adjust the depth gauges
Estimated 9 min to 14 min
IF YOU FILE THE DEPTH GAUGE TOO LOW, THE CUTTER TOOTH WILL BITE DEEPER INTO WOOD.
The chain will grab suddenly, jerk the saw upward, and cause kickback. File the depth gauge only to the height marked on the depth gauge tool.
- Place the depth gauge tool on each depth gauge (raker). The tool sits on the top of the raker and shows if it is too high.3mReport a problem with step 1, Adjust the depth gauges
- File the depth gauge using the flat file.5mReport a problem with step 2, Adjust the depth gauges
- File only if the depth gauge is higher than the depth gauge tool surface.
- File in one direction only, across the top of the depth gauge.
- Stop when the depth gauge is level with the top of the depth gauge tool.
- File every third or fifth depth gauge, depending on normal wear. If sharpening heavily worn teeth, check all depth gauges.1mReport a problem with step 3, Adjust the depth gauges
Inspect the sharpened chain
Estimated 6 min to 8 min
- Examine each cutter tooth for wear markers.3mReport a problem with step 1, Inspect the sharpened chain
- The manufacturer places wear marker lines on the tooth.
- If you cannot see the marker line, look for its outline on the tooth metal.
- Retire the chain if you cannot find any wear markers on the teeth.
- Compare the cutter heights on each side of the chain.3mReport a problem with step 2, Inspect the sharpened chain
- All cutters on the right side must be the same height.
- All cutters on the left side must be the same height.
- Uneven heights cause the chain to pull to one side and cut a curved kerf.
Install the chain
Estimated 10 min to 18 min
- Install the chain onto the sprocket.3mReport a problem with step 1, Install the chain
- Position the chain so it sits fully on the sprocket teeth.
- Adjust the bar tension so the chain lifts one-quarter inch from the bar at the midpoint.
- The chain must move freely but not sag away from the bar.
- Reconnect the spark plug lead.2mReport a problem with step 2, Install the chain
- Start the chainsaw.
- Let the engine run until it reaches operating temperature.
- Cut slowly into a log.
- The saw must bite into the wood easily, not hard.
- Stop if the chain pulls to one side or makes dust instead of chips.5mReport a problem with step 3, Install the chain
- If the chain pulls to one side, the cutter heights are not even.
- Return to the cutter-height section and file again.
- Repeat until all cutters cut evenly.
Terminology
This page uses one term for each item and holds it throughout, as ASD-STE100 requires. Equipment sellers and other guides use the names below for the same parts.
- Depth gauge
- Also called: no common alternatives
- Top plate
- Also called: no common alternatives
- Chain pitch
- Also called: no common alternatives
- Chain gauge
- Also called: no common alternatives
- Wear marker
- Also called: no common alternatives
- Kickback
- Also called: no common alternatives
When to use a professional
Do not sharpen a cracked chain or one with broken teeth. Do not sharpen past the wear markers. Take the chainsaw to an authorized dealer if you cannot identify the correct file size and angle.
Common questions
How often should I sharpen my chainsaw chain?
Sharpen the chain whenever you notice that it produces fine dust instead of chips, cuts slowly, or requires you to push harder to make the saw bite into the wood. A well-maintained chain may need sharpening every few hours of use, depending on the wood type and the presence of dirt or sand.
What is the difference between filing angles for different chain types?
Filing angle affects how aggressively the cutter bites into the wood. Softer woods tolerate higher angles (more aggressive); hardwoods and frozen wood require lower angles for better durability. Your chain manufacturer specifies the correct angle for your chain in the manual or on the packaging.
Can I use the same file size for all chains?
No. The file diameter must match your chain pitch. Using the wrong file size will produce uneven sharpening and an unsafe chain. Always verify your chain pitch before selecting a file.
What happens if I file the depth gauge too low?
A depth gauge filed too low allows the cutter to bite deeper than intended. The chain will grab suddenly and jerk the saw, causing dangerous kickback. Always file only until the depth gauge is flush with the top of the depth gauge tool.
When do I retire a chain and buy a new one?
Retire the chain when the wear markers on the cutter teeth have been worn away. Wear markers are engraved lines that show the limit of safe filing. Once they are gone, further filing removes material from the cutter structure, making the tooth weak and prone to breaking. Never file past the wear markers.
Related procedures
- Replace a chainsaw guide bar and check whether the drive sprocket is worn too
- What chain fits my chainsaw? How to check pitch, gauge, and drive link count
- How to tell if a chainsaw chain is too loose, and how to tighten it
Sources
Every specification on this page is traced to one of these sources. Tier 1 is a manufacturer document, a published standard, or a government safety authority. See Standards for the full tiering rule.
- Tier 1How to Sharpen a Chainsaw
- Tier 1Filing the Chain
- Tier 1Sharpening Chainsaw Chain
- Tier 1Chain Saw Safety
- Tier 1When to Replace Your Chainsaw Chain, Sprocket or Guide Bar
- Tier 2Chainsaw Files Size Chart: Guide for 3/8 Files & More
- Tier 2Chainsaw Chain Sharpening Angle Chart
Revision history
Current version 1 · updated 2026-08-03 · next review due 2027-08-03
- v1 · 2026-08-03First publication.
Corrections to this page are listed in the public corrections log. Reports that are credible and not yet verified are listed in the public errata register, and an open one renders above the step it concerns.
Comments and corrections
Found an error? A correction with a manufacturer source is applied and logged publicly. You can also write to corrections@fixchecklist.com.
Every step above carries its own report control, which tags the report with that step so a correction reaches the right place. For anything about the procedure as a whole — the order of the sections, a step that is missing, something that did not match your equipment — use this: report something about this whole procedure.